Saturday, March 19, 2016

So Much going on!!

A long wet, damp winter

Its been a very busy winter. When it been raining, which it has a lot, I have been in the workshop making equipment.

It was completely clear in my mind after last years successes, (and a few failures)  that I was ready to move in to more serious bee work. I feel I have done well with my first year at 25 hives. Had good honey crops, two in one season, Carried out successful queen rearing and subsequent mating and learned how to make up Nucleus colonies.

My Plan

So where to from  now, well, this year I have 36 overwintering nucleus colonies that i won't sell this spring. These are the ones I made last summer from my existing stock, that will occupy the 50 hives I ordered in Kit.  The remaining 14 or so empty hives will hopefully get filled up during the summer, with swarms I intend too make at the end of April/ early May when queen rearing will start.
I will also be putting out my usual swarm traps, which i said i wouldn't  do again this year, but to me its an invaluable source of bees and i love the excitement off it!!

As well as catching swarms and taking some frames of bees and brood from my production colonies when i harvest in the spring, I will be brushing some of the bees off the frames and in to a holding box, which which  i will then distribute  in to our Mini-Plus polystyrene mating nucs, then give them a small frame of brood and a queen. These will make great  Mini mating nucleus colonies, as well as being overwintering spare queens after the last round of mating this august. We hope to get four or five queens mated in each hive ( but its a push and very much weather dependant) and I've enough capacity to make up 30 Mini-Plus hives, although being realistic, it will take a while to get my numbers up. Like all things it takes time! Beekeeping is  knowing how to work   your bees to the maximum, so you have good honey crops, with minimal swarming. Also being able to take a little amount of  resources from each hive, but not too much so that the colony won't give you a honey crop.

However, the nucleus colonies should grow enough this spring, so that after the end of spring pause at the middle of May and before the start of the chestnut flow, they should be full of honey in their new ten  framed hives.  Some colonies will be stronger than others over the next 8 weeks ,so i can take frames of bees and brood and give it to others that aren't so strong. This is called balancing up.

So Combined work should fill my hives and mini mating nucs. Give me two honey crops . Give me spare queens for re-queening lots for my stocks and at the end of the season make one final nucleus colonie with all of my stocks that will hopefully give me over 100 spare for next spring, when i hope to have another 100 hives ready, but thats a long way off.


So where are all these new bees and hives going to go, well part of your plan has to include your apiaries. Its all very well producing bees, but to make honey and bees you need good apiaries.
Apiaries need to have shelter from winds, Be in area of your selected foraging for your bees (whatever that may be),  Sun for most of the day, be secure and out of sight and above all, have good vehicular access which is so important at harvest time. Hefting heavy supers that weigh over 20 kilos each if their full, is not fun if your fully kitted up, its stinking hot and you've still got 6 other apiaries to harvest!
Finally they must be in reasonable and economical distance to reach. 3 of my new ones are in a line and are on the route to one of my clients, where i also have apiaries. You have to be realistic as otherwise you end up traveling too much and your fuel  and Vehicle maintenance bill is huge.

Over the winter I have been carefully planning places by using google maps and google earth, paying visits and also meeting landowners. The results have been good and i happy to say i have more than enough sites for my bees and all in the places i wanted.
The best way to show what I've been up to is just to show the pictures.
I will subtitle underneath each one.

If you want to follow me i am on Instagram as" Plenty Of Honey"

 Putting together and painting up with exterior masonry paint, the bodies of the Mini-Plus hives.If you paint them as you put them together, you in effect, glue them together at the same time.

Making up the roofs, cutting the pine, rebating, glueing and screwing, Painting then an aluminium sheet finish for waterproofing.

Just for reference, a Mini-Plushive with frames in situ.

So on to the main hives. heres the 50 lids we made up.

Heres the first off the hives i bought in kit. They came from one of the larger bee companies near me, well 3hrs away. but when you order in bulk the price is better.
We use Nicot plastic bases, that are universal and are long lasting and easy to clean. only 9 euros per base

 Hives ready for painting. Their still very  resinous but overall they will dry out pretty quickly.

Ive also been making up Push in Cages with this No 8 hardware cloth. My very kind friend Zac in Vermont sent me this load of hardware cloth, so i have all the push in cases i will need for a very long time.

An interesting morning up in lower Normandy collecting this years sugar syrup . Delivered by tanker from Belgium to a collective of beekeepers, there was 6 of us.  Again a much better price when you get together.

Finally my thanks to Christian. The man who can!. He's the best mentor I could wish for and  been beekeeping professionally for  a long time.and theres not much he dosent know!!  So much work ahead, so much to look forward too!!! 

Sunday, November 8, 2015

Michael Palmers Apiaries My visit in Pictures and Video.

Summer trip to Vermont, North America

Well, if you havent been to Vermont before heres the location. French Hill Apiaries is located right up in North Vermont in a small town called St Albans. Its approximately  30 miles from the Canadian border and is just on the east side of the Champlin Valley. 

Mike Palmer next to his twin Nucleus colonies.

So why go all the way to Vermont?

I have followed Mike's methods of teaching "sustainability in the apiary," ever since I came across one of his presentations at the National Honey show in 2013. His talks, now world renowned are all available on this link:  and if your a budding or experienced beekeeper then I can assure you will learn something from them. There such a wealth of information, you pick up extra things each time you watch them.

The Works Truck, typical pick up, designed to take a lot of weight!!

A typical day in July. Finding the queen, ispecting and assessing the colony and requeening if necessary. Mostly through a push in cage if we killed the old inferior queen, or using  what we call a three hole cage with candy plug if the queen had been absent for a while.

The crew at work. All working together when necessary.

Cork Inserts a new queen under a push in Cage, amongst emerging brood and nectar.
The brood emerges and only knows the queen, they immediately start feeding this new queen, she starts laying. and then becomes acceptable to the existing workers and in four days time the cage is lifted off to reveal, under normal circumstances a queen, that has laid up the entire square underneath the cage. I will explain this method more further down, with a video that I took of Michael preparing a queen and putting her under a cage.

If we cant find the queen, we shake the entire colony through a shaker box, with a queen barrier fixed to the bottom of the shaker box. That was you always find her! its possibly more labour, but sometimes you look and look and look, but you just cant find her and you've wasted half an hour and you still have not found her!!

This way you always find her, working together here, but usually two people is sufficient  to find her! dont forget that this time of year, the colonie numbers are at their maximum so theres a lot of bees as you can see.

I have included a video of the whole process. Lots of info here!!

I had missed the last grafts, but i was lucky enough to see Mike harvest the last batch of queens from his gigantic cell builder colonies. I mean WOW, just look at the size of these colonies and those beautiful queen cells. we put these cells straight in to  queen less nuc boxes that morning.

Just look at the amount of nurse bees on those cells!!

Excellent take on the last round of queen cell grafts!!

During the later part of my week we switched from requeening to urgently give nucleus colonies more space. These were nucs that Mike had made up during early summer that desperately needed more space. We added 3 combs and one foundation to the middle of the 4 over 4 configuration, giving the bees more room to ventilate and hopefully reduce the swarming impulse. Swarming in july isn't really a problem in Europe, but in North America it can be a real issue as the bees only really have 6 to 8 weeks to build up again before winter, so its tight!

Mikes apiaries are all situated around the north east, north and Northwest of Lake Champlain, the scenery is beautiful.

 Crossing the bridges between the islands of Lake Champlain. 
 Really close to the border between New York State and  Canada

Nucleus Colonies

Typical two  colonie nuc box configuration

Mike has colonies of bee he calls his "sustainably nucleus colonies".  He has two colonies, side by side, with the entrance at the base of the hive but at opposite ends, then theres no confusion for the bees.
He finds that the four, over four, over four configuration of Langsdroth frames work excellent all year round. Temperatures in the winter get so cold, often colder than minus 25 degrees C. The snow gets so deep you sometimes  need a spade to find the hives. But usually theres a contant 1 to 2 feet of snow on the ground. Hence all Mikes hives have an upper chimney that allow the bees to ventilate and get a cleansing flight if the weather permits, as they have permanent access to the outside.

Typical base of the Nuc box colonies, you can see the the opposite side entrances. On top of this goes the first brood box, which is a standard sized brood box with a division board between the two. You can see where the division board (in the brood box) sits by looking at the base pictured above.
On top of this after the brood box, goes each individual four frame holder. Some two box nucs configurations actually have one side with say 8 frames and one side four but an additional empty box can be placed on the side with the lease frames in, to bring up the level, so the roof still sits on both. Its very ingenious and above all the bees share their heat in the winter and the do what they love to do, go up!! Its the natural way that bees go. Imagine bees in a natural cavity of the european honey bee, its a tree trunk!

One of Mike's Large Nuc yards, north of Lake Champlain. This one has to be protected year around from black bears. They love honey too and can devastate an apiary in a few hours!!
You can see we  were adding comb to two over two framed configuration, where their bearding due to growing so well that they have run out of room and also it was stinking hot!!

Cut Comb Honey.

Mike also showed me the special supers he has made to collect  cut comb honey. Although not a huge part of his sales, Mike sells one of the finest cut comb honeys in Vermont. The pink boxes are put on a hive during a flow, so that good quality, soft , fine wax is used during the nectar gathering process. the result being the most delicious comb honey!!

A beautiful product!!

Storage sheds and Honey extracting unit.

Golden Rod , Just coming in to flower as I left for trip back to France.

This is the  biological brush cutter!! reliable and quiet!! Her Name is Meat!!

The lake at the bottom of Mikes garden, has its own beavers together with dam!! 

Ground squirrels are often seen around. These are delightful creatures and often are seen around mikes hive. this one was just waling around whilst we were working!!

Typical architecture in New England

The Highstreet in St Albans

My Taxi back home.

What more could I have wished for. A absolutely fantastic and unique visit, where i learnt so much in my week away. Mike and  his family were so hospitable! Thanks to everyone , you were all so welcoming!!
I hope to return soon, but next year i am planning a trip to the uk to visit other apiaries and friends i havent seen for a little while. I will definitely be visiting Vermont soon.

On with the winter beekeeping and back to reality!!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Chestnut city!!

Not Appologising!!!

I am not sorry for not blogging over the last two months plus, the only excuse is thats its been the busiest period of beekeeping I can remember.
So when i last spoke, I was dreaming of a good spring flow and indeed we had it!! For nearly 3 weeks we had excellent weather, high numbers of bees and a superb early spring flow.  It was spring flowers to include Blackthorn, Rape seed that were  were the main players that kicked in after the start of the goat willow bonanza.  Tons of pollen for brood rearing, brought in by healthy populations that weren't lost over a warm winter, instead a cooler period between December and mid February proved very beneficial to all colonies. This keeps the worker bees from literally working, so they stay quiet. When the weather did warm up, it ws a perfect combination.

So the good weather ended right at the start of the hawthorn and apple flowers, but this wasn't a problem because we needed to harvest then, otherwise oil seed honey starts to crystallise in the frames. If that happens its  basically a disaster.
The troubler with the stuff is that on minute its like water, the next its too thick to extract. Getting somewhere in the middle is where the skill in involved.

Capped honey ready for extraction.

So from there what next? Well traditionally theres a bit of a dearth for the bees until the bramble and chestnut starts. For me I chose to make some of my first batches of queens and then when they were ready, on day 10, I harvested them and put them in to nucleus colonies I had made, just after the end of the flow. Their was so many bees in the hives, I would have been stupid not to use a little of the hives resources.
How many bees to take out?

So basically if you artificially swarm your hives, then you are removing all the flying bees and really hitting the colony hard. This in turn will lead to reduced foragers and the colonie won't build itself up really well, in time for the summer flow, so for me this year, I wanted honey and bees.
I will try and do a video on how we make up nucs. Basically taking bees and brood, that will hatch out in time , then give them a queen.
They make a colonie quickly, as your not waiting 16 days for a queen cell to be hatched out, and you can give them a good queen you have grafted!!
You can also make up mating nucs. Anything is possible if you have queens. The method I use to make Queens  is the Michael Palmer 10 + 10  Method, he bases his method on the brother Adams method, of adding 10 frames for brood to an already strong colony, then just as they think about swarming, you make them queen less and give them a load of grafted eggs (combining the emergency procedure with the swarming impulse) . This is what I get!

Beautiful drawn out closed queen cells, ready for harvest. 

Trip Away

So I am away next week on a trip of a lifetime to America, Vermont to do a weeks beekeeping  at a most excellent Apiary, can't wait. I have been planning this trip for over a year. Will report back with pics of the trip when I get back at the end of the month.

So to Summarise, good all round, honey, queens and lovely weather. Were just coming to the end of our chestnut flow, but again its hot and humid, quite a special period of weather over the last two weeks. A friend has a set of  electronic scales on his hives. Every night a readout is sent to a master controller and he is able to monitor the weight, humidity, temperature and gain over the previous day, making a visit perfectly timed if needed. All last week  the hives went up by on average about a kilo per day. If you think of that over  all your hives thats a lot of honey to harvest!
Harvest for me will be in about 3 weeks when I get back from North America!! Bring it on!!

Will be making more nucs up this Saturday too, after that its the end of the season, Really?, well yes theres nothing to do now but prepare for winter!! but quietly i am looking forward to a quieter period, been out many evenings moving bees, moving swarms from traps and just trying to keep on top of things!!  and be a gardner !! its certainly been a very busy time. 

Enjoy the great weather!!

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Asian Hornet how to make traps.

Spring has sprung!!

Well the honey harvest is now almost a memory, except for the 1 kilo white blocks that have appeared in the last week. When they went in, they were a lovely golden yellow/ orange colour
Thats the problem with spring honey. Leave it too long before you harvest it and its crystallised in the frames. Harvest it too soon and its like water and would probably ferment.

So with the harvest done, whats the state of the hives? well, quite populous actually. So many bees in the hives I have harvested 2 frames from each of my production colonies  and a few extra bees too , put them in a nucleus box and moved them away more than 3 kilometres and gave them a queen cell the next day.
They seem to be doing great, most are foraging and all the queens have hatched out.
3 of them took the queens with them in the nuc boxes and therefore the hives the nucs came from  were without a queen, however I have spares as I managed to make another 13 queen cells last week and their ready for harvest tomorrow.  So I can check and hives that were naturally requeening and give them a  queen cell if necessary. I have also fed my nucs and hives that are queen less.


Even though theres plenty of food around, well last week there was, this week the nectar flow will have virtually stopped, so I was lucky it all happened the week before last, as I was able to take out some bees and they were able to replace frames and bees quickly, while there was plenty of nectar around.
This taking of some bees from the hives did also give my colonies some breathing space. Taking off the honey reduces the hive size within, so you are really forcing the bees into a smaller cavity, unless you immediately give them back an empty super, so inevitable if theres still as flow running and you had to harvest due to the honey crystallising in your frames, its very likely that if you have large populations of bees in your hives that swarming could start.

All hives that gave me 2 frames of bees and brood  have instantly drawn up the replacement frames of foundation, with new wax and queens have laid directly in to the new cells.
Its an instant test to see if the hive is queenless, because new frames stuck in the brood sections, in a flow, in the spring  are sure to be drawn up with worker brood at an instance.

Thinking ahead, looking at the size of your colonies, knowing the nectar flow and planning has given me honey,  queens, made nucleus colonies and have, at present , kept my bees in their hives and not hanging from the trees. So Yes a very good start to the season indeed.

Mating yard with all my nucs containing 2 frames of bees and brood and a virgin queen Cell.

There is now, however, a longish pause in the flow, before the glorious chestnut trees unfurl their month long golden carpet. Theres pollen around and if your hives are nearer urban areas, they will profit more from their proximity to shrubs and trees you dont really find in the rural locations.
In another week when the wild broom is finished I will be checking hives again, checking there enough feed in the colonies and adding a first super to give the bees more space and to start preparation for the next flow. Right now mine have enough space,  as the two frames I had inserted in the hives are now capped over with  brood, so the queen still has room to lay elsewhere. This is key, space in the brood nest!!

From now on until the main flow starts, its all about maximising your bees to a pinacle of readiness. Too many bees might result in a summer swarm. To little and you just won't get much honey. Having young and  well mated queen is key to this, the older the queen, generally the more she is likely to swarm, and the lesser eggs she will lay and subsequently the weaker the colony and the lesser honey you will have!!


So now spring has well and truly sprung,  our thoughts are turning to trapping and monitoring the summer pests.
Asian hornets are now here and here to stay. We will never be rid pf them, but hopefully after a few years their only natural predator, a tiny wasp should increase in numbers and hopefully take out a few more of the nests in late summer!

I have done a video on how I see things and its purely my point of view.
It also details the manufacture of good reliable hornet traps, that can easily be made selective by means of a 7mm hole drilled through one of the lids. Its all explained in the video.

Part One

Part 2

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

From nothing to Queens, Swarms and Honey in 3 weeks.

Where does one start!

Well, its been pretty busy over the last 3 weeks.  First it was the black thorn, then oil seed rape started,  now its the Cherrys, Acers and the wild Broom, together with the start of the Hawthorn, its an amazingly strong spring.
So why are our  Colonies so strong this year : this is my theory.

Autumn 2014 was amazing. Colonies went in to the winter with huge stores of Ivy honey!
Between January  and the end of February it was cold, not bitterly cold  and bees were quiet and didn't work hard over the winter, therefore they live longer.
In early march, we had healthy bees that lived a long time and were able do lots of work for the colonies before they died later. So the colonies were very strong this year in time for the nectar flow when it came.  It was certainly strong. We had good foraging weather for nearly 3 weeks  and its still not over yet as the cherries are just finishing and now the apples are just in to full bloom.

If it was still warm, then you could say that we probably would have another full super on our hives. but its not and soon will be the ned of the spring flow. Afterwards theres still flowers but no real nectar until the formidable chestnut trees start their month long show and exude the best golden honey one can buy! but thats all still to come.
I will be starting my harvest this weekend, as spring honey crystallised very quickly, we have 2 weeks to harvest or risk it setting beyond extraction. harvesting twice, once with the honey collected first, which is found in the first supers I added. when I added a second I always elevate the first super above the new one, leaving shorter distances for receiver bees to travel.
I will do a second harvest in another week for the remainder, depending on how thick and viscous the first lot is!!

So due to the weather being so good and drones appearing a few weeks earlier I went for my first run of queens.
I used the Michael Palmer 10 + 10 method. The results are pretty impressive considering its still early spring and my grafting skills aren't that good.
I did the graft 2 days earlier than I would have liked but the forecast was bad for the next day.
I needed to go in to the hive, make it queenless, and turn the original bottom brood box part of the  hive around, to face the other way and put the top section I had added the brood too, back on a new base, make sure it queen less, cut out any queen cells. leave it for a few hours "hopelessly queenless", then add the graft.


So 8 days before, I harvest 8 frames of brood from my nucleus colonies, not from my production colonies. I put them in a  standard  brood box, above a queen excluder, above an already strong colony, that I first checked for swarm cells.

I leave it for 7 to 8 days for the brood to hatch and lift off the hatched brood and put to one side.
Then I put a new base down on the place of the existing colony, that you've just turned around to face the other way. Put on the base a partially filled super of uncapped honey. This helps insulate the bees against cold and also creates a flow in the hive, as bees dont like honey below the super and move it up, thus creating a flow!!
Then  put on the brood box of hatched brood above the super and check through the 8 frames for queen cells. There usually is a lot, because when you elevate brood above an excluder you usually get queens cells but no fresh eggs as the queen hasn't been abe to lay in there!! this is key!!)
These Queen Cells must be ALL cut out, so you dont get any of these hatching before yours do!! if this happens, one queen hatched will more than likely destroy all your  other queen cells.
Then you need to go through them all again and check for a second time, shaking off bees in to the same brood box, as you go, to ensure theres no queen cell hiding in a depression.

When thats done, using a shaker box add extra nurse bees, shaken through a queen excluded box (from the core of the existing hive you have just moved to one side), leaving just enough to cover brood in the remaining moved colony.

 NO queen can  end up in the colony before the graft is added.

The colony is now hopelessly queenless.   No Queen, and No way of making a new one as theres no eggs available, less than 3 days old.

Leave the bees for a few hours so they all realise their hopelessly queenless.

Later that day, insert the graft. The bees will jump on the graft and quiet dow, they have their queen, their saved.

5 days later when the grafts are sealed, lift off the brood box with the grafts, reinstated the old colony back in its place and then put the cells and brood box back on top, but ABOVE A QUEEN EXCLUDER!!

For the next 5 days the queen cells can mature. Harvest at the end of the 5 days and use in Mating nucs, nucleus colonies made at least the day before or in top of a hive, in the supers, in a flow, where the queen should supersede an old queen if necessary.

Very happy with this for April

Other trees in flower are :

Common broom
 Bird Cherry

What a lovely start to the beekeeping year. Honey in the supers, minimal swarming and queen cells to  use, made under the most ideal conditions!! Long may it continue.